The colors are what strike you first. The sunny red of the tomatoes, the rainbow on the Swiss chard, the dark, iridescent hue of the blackberries. Then it’s the conversations that flow back and forth. “I have asparagus,” whispers the farmer to a regular, or “Have you tried duck eggs?” And finally, back home, it’s the taste of childhood rediscovered: strawberries that taste like strawberries, fragrant basil perfuming the whole kitchen, an artisanal rhubarb pie no one will resist. As soon as the farm stands reopen, shopping for dinner takes on a new romantic slant. Here, a look at our frontrunners:

GREEN THUMB ORGANIC FARM
It’s all in the family at the Green Thumb, where 12 generations of Halseys have farmed the generous soil. Since Papa Ray almost died in 1967 from a drop of pesticide in an open cut, the four siblings have taken the organic route. It’s no secret that some of the top private chefs won’t cook without Green Thumb produce. 829 Montauk Highway, Water Mill, 726-1900; greenthumborganicfarm.com

AMAGANSETT FARMERS MARKET
Since Eli Zabar took over in 2008, he has worked with the Peconic Land Trust to keep the market as locally based as possible. The best challah on Long Island is baked right on the premises, as are crunchy baguettes. Rotisserie chicken and homemade mozzarella count as definite summer hits. In the back, Amber Waves Farm is cultivating seven acres that yield organic produce sold throughout Eli’s empire. 367 Main St., Amagansett, 267-3894; elizabar.com

ROUND SWAMP FARM
A National Bicentennial Farm, Round Swamp Farm has grown into a full-fledged market where four generations now work together. Where else can you find a gentleman farmer who doubles as a fisherman? Owner Carolyn Lester Snyder oversees the clan, eying every detail from the pickles to the chutneys. Lisa Niggles, who started making chocolate-chip cookies when she was 12, makes some of the best muffins, cakes and other baked goods. Don’t miss Shelly Schaeffer’s key lime pie! 184 Three Mile Harbor Road, East Hampton, 324-4438; roundswampfarm.com

FAIRVIEW FARM AT MECOX
Harry Ludlow says it himself: He’s no phenom at marketing, but he is a pretty amazing farmer. Hits include 30 varieties of tomatoes; bicolor corn; cantaloupe as sweet as candy; Mecox Bay Dairy artisanal cheeses made by brother Art; daughter Meredith’s legendary fruit pies; son Nathan’s hive-harvested honey and wife Barbara’s tasty soups. Make sure to get your grass-fed beef brought in from farms in Connecticut; it’s in the meat freezer in the back. 19 Horsemill Lane at Mecox Road, Bridgehampton, 537-6154