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Located on the North Fork of Long Island, Greenport and greater Southold hold a treasure trove of shops, activities, museums, and (of course) wineries. Best thing is, you can avoid the summer traffic and take the ferry right into town. by Colin M. Graham and Alexandra Myerson

SHOP TILL YOU DROP
MINT
While this high-end shop carries a few mainstream lines like Milly, Alice + Olivia, and Shoshanna, owner Joanna Leigh Mazzella prides herself on offering some obscure pieces, too, including works from up-and-coming designers both in the US and overseas. Decorated in a mint green theme, it’s the newest location of three shops (the other two are in Mattituck and Westhampton Beach) and flaunts a beachier feel to match the laid-back atmosphere of the ’Port. With a variety of trendy accessories, shoes, jewelry, hats, bathing suits, and more, it’s no wonder celebrities like Mandy Moore and Susan Lucci frequent this hot spot. 15 Front Street, Suite 4, Greenport, 477-6436; shopmint.com.

NOW AND ZEN
Every now and then Hamptonites have the urge to kick back with a little knit and purl. Owner Christine Henson has made Now and Zen the go-to place for all needlework needs. The three-year-old store carries a variety of hand-spun and handdyed yarns, needles, kits, and hand-designed bags. And even if you’ve never done a slip-knit or a yarn-over before, don’t fret—the shop holds one-on-one lessons, by appointment, and group knit-ins every Tuesday night from six to eight. 211 East Front Street, Greenport, 477- 2585; nowandzenyarns.com.

TRIANGLE SEA SALES
Established more than 30 years ago by husband- and-wife team Joseph and Elaine Henry, Triangle Sea Sales is the Greenport destination for the nautically inclined. Enter through its “old shoppe” exterior and you’re presented with touristy items and ornamental pieces ranging from plaques and jewelry to souvenirs and naval trinkets. Head to the back of the store for old binnacles, telescopes, compasses, vintage nautical postcards, and handcrafted ship models. A few steps farther you’ll hit “Shipwreck Alley”—one part junkyard, one part museum, it’s filled with used boat parts, hardware, and old fishing gear. 36 South Street, Greenport, 477-1773; triangleseasales.com.

VELVET ELVIS
Velvet Elvis is the home base for Metal Monk jewelry, a collection designed by owners Adam and Donya Kaufer. Metal Monk is a unique line of handcrafted pieces ranging from high-end, semiprecious items from the Cherry Brand and Thematic collections to the less expensive chic accessories in the Pink Monkey line. (You can also find these pieces at chains like Urban Outfitters and Anthropologie.) In addition to its own jewelry, Velvet Elvis features large metal sculptures by Fred Conlin and smaller decorative pieces by Tamara Hensick, plus hand-painted pottery by Sugar Post pottery and glassware. For hip and original items for both your body and your home, Velvet Elvis is a definite must-see. 110 Front Street, Unit 5, Greenport, 477-2722; metalmonk.com.


AROUND TOWN
ANTIQUE CAROUSEL
Donated in 1995 by the Northrop Grumman Corporation, this charming carousel was originally built in the 1920s. Decked with bright colors and charismatic horses, it’s a great place to lighten up and have fun whether you’re young or just young at heart. Those who are daring can try their hand at grabbing the brass ring; its capture wins a free ride. Mitchell Park on Front Street, Greenport, 477-2200.

EAST END SEAPORT MUSEUM AND MARINE FOUNDATION
The North Fork is best known for two things: wineries and marinas. This museum caters to the latter, featuring exhibitions on Greenport’s maritime history. The most popular exhibits are probably the Fresnel lenses, which are used to pass more light through lighthouses so they can be seen from farther distances. In September the museum hosts the annual Maritime Festival, a celebration full of kayak derbies, whale boat races, and the famous Clam Chowder contest. Third Street at the ferry dock, Greenport, 477-2100; eastendseaport.org.


EDITOR’S PICKS FOR KIDS
CAPTAIN’S KIDDS SUMMER CAMP
Greenport’s nautical legacy lives on for children every summer at the Captain’s Kidds Summer Camp. During the weeklong program, youngsters ages six to 12 will learn about the area’s aquatic history and boat basics like knot tying and mapmaking, and prepare for a Kidd-based Maritime Pirate musical production that’s performed on the last day of the camp. The program offers “one week of seafaring drama promising a boatload of fun.” Shiver me timbers! Call 765-6235 or visit kiddscamp.com.

SCHOONER MARY E
From August 9 to 11, the Mary E will be docking in Greenport. Built in 1906 and refurbished in 1963, the historic schooner offers daily sails and private charters during which you can learn how to hoist the sails, man the helm, and navigate. Or you can kick back on the deck and enjoy the views as you slip through the waves. If you have an interest in sailing—or are just looking for a great way to spend the day with family or friends—don’t miss out on a chance to board this beautiful vessel. 101-A East Broadway, Port Jefferson, 662-7925; for private charters call 332-0699 or e-mail captericvandy@aol.com; schoonermarye.com.

HEARD IT THROUGH THE GRAPEVINE
COREY CREEK VINEYARDS
If you’re looking for a great bottle of wine and some sweet R&R, head over to this vineyard where the tasting room opens to a wide outdoor deck—great for taking in the view while sipping on their renowned Reserve Chardonnay or Gewürztraminer. Don’t miss the live music performances every weekend or the wine and cheese pairings held the last Saturday of every month, and make sure to try some of their homemade, all-natural jams and jellies. 45470 Main Road, Route 25, Southold, 765-4168; bedellcellars.com.

OLD FIELD VINEYARDS
This family-owned vineyard has been around since the mid-seventies, first producing fruit and then wines, beginning with its 1997 Pinot Noir. Now offering a variety of selections like Merlots, Cabernet Francs, Chardonnays, and the newly released Blanc de Noir sparkling wines, Old Field hosts walking tours every Saturday, symposiums on global wines, and live music throughout the summer. 59600 Main Road, Route 25, Southold, 765-0004; theoldfield.com.


DID YOU KNOW?
• George Washington and Walt Whitman both summered in Greenport and Southold.

• South Fork restaurateur Nello Balan recently bought two Greenport buildings where he plans to open a hotel/restaurant next year.

• During the summers of 1938 and 1939, Albert Einstein rented a cottage on Little Peconic Bay in Southold. An avid (if somewhat awkward) sailor, Einstein, who spent the summer sailing in his boat Tineff (a Yiddish word meaning “worthless”), called the bay “the most beautiful sailing ground I ever experienced.”

• Throughout its history, Greenport has been known by several names. In the pre- Revolutionary War years, it was originally called Winter Harbor. The town was later renamed Stirling, then changed again to Greenhill before being officially dubbed Greenport in 1838 upon its incorporation into Southold Town.

• Claudio’s Restaurant in Greenport is the oldest single-family-owned restaurant in the country— it’s been in the same hands since 1870.


BY THE NUMBERS
103

Number of voyages made by the 24 whaling ships located in Greenport between 1795 and 1859

1640
Year the famed Hamptons music venue and night spot the Stephen Talkhouse opened its doors

1838
Year Greenport was incorporated as part of the town of Southold



The complete article appears on page 120 in the July 11–July 17, 2008 issue of Hamptons. SUBSCRIBE NOW and get Hamptons delivered direct.

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